Monday, 23 January 2017

Victorian underskirt

Hello lovelies,

I finished another underskirt. This will be worn between the corset and the corded petticoat.
I started the petticoat back in 2016 but I always work on so many different projects at the same time, it is hard to keep track of all the things I start. Most of the time I look at the time stamp on my camera to get the start date.

The whole skirt is made out of a white cotton fabric.

I run out of these so many times so I made a batch. Ha.

There are no pictures on how I cut the skirt...at least I couldn't find any. So I made the skirt out of three different panels; one huge front and two smaller back pieces. Actually I remember it was two pieces at fist but I cut one in half and sewed it together again. It is easier to do the back with that technique, I think.


The skirt was super plain but I wanted to make it look a bit fancier. Therefore I added three tucks randomly.


Oh and cotton lace of course. At that point I had already finished the seam.

When the skirt part was done I made the belt and I was done. It really doesn't take long to sew a skirt like that. I always wonder afterwards why I take so long.






I used gross grain ribbon again for the waist tie. It works best for me.

And this is how it looks like with a chemise and my corset. I again wanted pictures of everything after I ate a big dinner. Great. But at least it looks decent.

All the best,

Aurîs


Tuesday, 17 January 2017

Larme kei coords

Hello lovelies,

I have a few coords to share again but I will only post the first two, so the post won't get too long.
Both outfits are larme coordinates.





The skirt is either from primark or from forever 21, I am not so sure. I bought the top ages ago from a chinese shop. I think the choker was from primark.
I like this outfit and in general the combination pink and black. Or pink and white. Everything with pastel and black or white.
Reblog it from tumblr





The second coordinate is all in black. I wanted to go for an e hyphen world gallery bonbon or Risa Nakamura look. The hair is a little bit messy though because of the strong wind and snow we had that day.
The dress is from Terranova and the rest is either another brand I forgot or offbrand.
The tumblr post can be found here. 

All the best,

Aurîs


Thursday, 12 January 2017

Corded Petticoat

Hello lovelies,

no matter if I sew historical fashion or cosplay, I always start with the undergarments. My corset is done already so next in line was a corded petticoat. I went through my data to collect all pictures and noticed that I started this petticoat in May 2016. And it's January 2017 now. At least I finished it now, I guess?
For the skirt I used two layers of cotton fabric and pushed twist cord between it.
The problem with this project is that the skirt is too wide or the cord was too stiff. It gives the desired effect of flaying the skirt but I feel that it would have been better if the skirt was narrower.



I used my zipper foot to sew right next to the cord. What I did is just sew all around the skirt. It took a while and I run out of cord two times.

The measurements were almost 2 meter at the top.



To be honest, I only started new lines because I run out of cord and wanted to start new. Also I thought it wouldn't be that stiff if I left a few centimeters free now and then.

In between I dressed up my doll. I don't know why the skirt looks better here but I guess it has to do with the pleats.


And here is a good comparison between a petticoat with and without corded petticoat.It looks a lot more puffier and rounder.
What I did next is continue sewing the cords, then do the pleats and add the waist tape.
The back is closed with gross grain ribbon.



It keeps the skirt flared but I am not that happy with the project (again). It looks so much better with the larger pleats...

Cost: 6 euro for the fabric. I am not sure how many meters of cord was used but I bought four more packs to the two I had so about 6 packs of cord making it about 13 euro.
Time needed: over the span of 8 months maybe...20 hours? I have no idea.
Satisfaction: 3/5
I don't like how wobbly it is.


All the best,

Aurîs

Sunday, 8 January 2017

My corselette or wtf did I do wrong?

Hello lovelies,

I am waiting for new fabric samples and in the meantime I wanted to do a quick project. I bought the 1940s corselette pattern from Mrs Depew a while ago but never started because the pattern came with that strange circle pattern and without sewing instruction.
But what could go possibly go wrong, I thought to myself. (The correct answer is a lot. A LOT).

This is what the pattern and the measurement looked like:
Can you spot my first mistake?
I bought the pattern from a US site and thought the pattern was in inches and not in centimetres. And for the first time, it really was in centimetres and no, my bust is not 34 centimetres. So the first pattern looked like a corselette for a bigger doll. Nice.
So, I cut out the correct ruler this time and started again.

This is what my pattern looked like. As you can see the wrong pattern is still drawn onto some pieces.
But the pattern didn't work out for me and I came to understand it better than at my first try. So I scraped the pattern and made a new one.

I made the first mock up out of cotton. It looked okay but some things were just off. Especially that weird side part. So for the next mock up with elastic material, I just left out the side parts.


But first I drew a new pattern. It looked so much better! It is still shown on the pattern but in the end I also got rid of the weird side part from the front. 
Mistake number two was making theside parts a bit bigger because I thought my hips would need it. Nope. They didn't.

Even though I skipped the side parts, it was still too big. (After I cut out the final fabric I read on Mrs Depew website that the lingerie already had a 3/8inch ~ 0,95cm sewing allowance in the pattern. Peachy.) I cut away 3cm on each side and reduced the upper cup parts. 

I thought I was ready for the pretty material, but I was not. I should have made a third mock-up. 

Everything was sewn together and I made french seams because they just looked prettier in my opinion.


Until then I thought it looked nice. Then I tried it on again.
Guess what, the boob cups where much too big (yes, I know, I made double seam allowance but even if I had subtracted the 0,95cm, they would have still been too big.) and the whole corselette was much too big for my tiny 155cm ~ 5'0". I could have bitten my butt. This pattern was just a whole catastrophe. When my powernet arrives I will definitely choose another pattern and not use this. It was just so frustrating to use.
Okay, continuing. 
To finish the edges I wanted to use this lingerie elastic. But It didn't look good at all. It was too rough. I wanted something more delicate. Lucky for me, M. had some white elastics left from god knows which project. I took it gladly. I made bra straps out of it (tutorial for that is coming soon) and finished all the edges.
It looks much better, doesn't it?

 See this third seam under the boob part. This was the only way I could think of to make the corselette a bit smaller.
But according to M., he wouldn't have known if I hadn't told him. As if :|


And this is how my finished corselette looks like. 
Point 1, I know that I didn't use the correct stitch for adding the elastics. This is the reason why it's so wobbly at the edges. But I didn't care anymore. I just wanted to finish this most frustrating project.
Point 2, I now know how to make bra straps. Hooray.

Time needed: maybe about 18h?
Costs: the pattern was 7.50$, I already had the fabric and the elastics were given to me. 
Satisfaction: 1/5

Aurîs